Arriving into Coonoor

 Where did we leave off? I think Emily and I were in a sleeper carriage surrounded by snoring men doing our best to get some sleep. Eventually after a night of fitful waking and sleeping, jolts and wobbles and whispered giggled conversations between the two of us we pulled into Mettupalayam station before the sun had a chance to rise. We braved the trains toilets one last time (I was going to take a picture but thought I would spare you that trial) and hopped off the train. After a quick cuppa on the station Sam led us to his car past the toy train as it filled it's tanks with water (This is the Nilgiri steam train that I had hoped to go on, alas that joy is saved for another day!)

The view from the orphanage in the foothills

We met up with Ganesh, the chap who came to pick us up, and Sam told us to pronounce his name like the elephant god, then took great joy from slapping Ganesh on the shoulder and shouting, “Elephant man! Elephant man!” First stop on our journey was to the site where the new orphanage is being built. The land comprises 3 acres of cleared land with a few little streams running through it and the occasional coconut tree reaching for the heavens. The orphanage itself is being built at the end furthest from the road leaving just under 2 acres that are put aside for playing fields and gardens. We pulled up and Ganesh honked his horn a few times. Moments later it was apparent why as some sleepy looking builders emerged from a corrugated tin hut where they are living while they do the building work. At that point the foundations had just been laid and Sam walked the site asking questions and checking on the work.

The work begins as the foundations are laid

Meanwhile Emily and I got our first look at the Nilgiri hills. The new orphanage is set in the foothills barely a mile from where the road starts to climb the hills from the plains. As the sun came up into a cloudless sky it lit up these majestic hills covered in trees with here and there a bare rock jutting out. We could tell it was going to be a hot day on the plains so were relieved when Sam called us back to the car and we made our ascent up to a much cooler Coonoor. We had barely started the climb when we spotted several Makak monkeys hanging out by the side of the road chewing on various pieces of goodness knows what.

The road to Coonoor and Ooty is a relentless climb up a well maintained road with only slightly terrifying sheer drops here and there. Scarier is how the drivers have no problem with overtaking on a blind hairpin bend so long as they sound their horn when doing so. The drive was a feast for the eyes with cascading waterfalls, lush forest with magnificently bright flowers growing in abundance and small villages with various roadside shrines to various gods (including several plastic Jesus' and the odd virgin Mary) We were absolutely loving it, haring up the hillside narrowly missing oncoming traffic and taking in the spectacular views.

At last we reached the top and drove through the streets of Coonoor to park under Sam's church (Bethesda Church) and walked down the road to his beautiful turquoise and burnt red house on the side of a hill. We were greeted at the door by Sam's wife Laisha, sister in law Molly and daughter Lydia. The family all live together on a single floor with 4 bedrooms and large open plan living-dining area. They live above a dormitory which houses the younger children and older girls. The windows overlook a courtyard where cricket is played in all spare minutes and across the way there is another small building where the older boys sleep and meals are prepared.

By now Emily and I were very travel weary and though we were mostly rehydrated by several hours of forcing water down ourselves, we were hungry and imagine our delight as Laisha produced a toaster, a loaf of bread, butter and a jar of marmalade! Sweet manna from heaven! MARMALADE! After eating our fill of toast and trying to make conversation, despite feeling like we were thinking through brick walls of exhaustion, we were shown to our bedroom (complete with hot and cold running water, western toilet, double bed and balcony) said goodnight, and at half past 8 in the morning, crashed onto the bed and slept slept slept.

But what have we been doing since you may wonder? I think I'll be gracious enough to let Emily tell you. So until next time, :-)